Ollie Gold used to work in a catering departments providing food for Formula 1 teams.
But his bakery in Prebend Street, Islington, is a far cry from the screeching tyres and exhaust fumes of the grid.
Nestled in a quiet corner of Islington, just metres from a 150-year-old church and at the heart of St Peter’s low-traffic neighbourhood, Pophams offers more to pastry lovers than petrol heads.
Founded by Gold in 2017 on the site of a derelict chemist, the bakery has gone from strength to strength, and has since opened two more outlets in London Fields and Victoria Park.
Its success was recently recognised in a national paper – last month Pophams made The Times’ 49 best bakeries in Britain list.
As if this was not reason enough for me to visit, the Prebend Street bakery has ample outside space – the perfect opportunity to take advantage of the sun on a balmy September afternoon.
Many others seemed to have had a similar idea, settling down with a pastry and their laptops to see out the week. It was Friday lunchtime after all.
Among other things, the bakery offers a wide selection of sandwiches and yoghurts, as well as hot (or iced) drinks.
It also bakes its own loaves, although it might be best to get there early if you want one – they were sold out by the time I arrived.
Dee Rettali, co-owner of the Fortitude Bakehouse in Bloomsbury, was tasked with chosing the London bakeries to feature on The Times’ list.
She said Pophams "are the masters of lamination" - folding and layering pastry - and the one spot in London where she is happy to queue.
When you step into the café, the obvious temptation is the selection of pastries placed neatly by the counter.
I happily obliged – choosing four of the eight on offer after asking for recommendations, all of which were beautifully glazed and perfectly flaky, as promised by Dee.
Starting with one of the bakery’s most popular savoury offerings – a marmite, schlossberger cheese and spring onion twist – I quickly bought into the hype.
The salty marmite perfectly balances the sweetness of the spring onion, while the richness of the cheese is flavoursome but not overwhelming.
Dee has also recommended the bakery’s pain au chocolat. Buttery and light with plenty of filling, it did not disappoint.
For those craving something fruitier, the peach, schnapps and fig leaf custard pastry was packed with flavour. For spice-lovers, the cardamom bun was as good as you would expect.
Pophams undoubtedly delivers what it promises – so race over if you can (sports car drivers beware the traffic restrictions).
The bakery in Prebend Street is open 7.30am until 4pm, Monday to Friday, from 8am on a Saturday, and from 8.30am on a Sunday.
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